Brilliant.



S. HELLER.

BRILLIANT.

APPLICATION FILED MAR-2.1916.

Patented Jan. 14, 1919.

Inventor:

Noll": "an m. mamuma. van mm. b r

"omen SAMUEL HELLER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BRILLIANT.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 14, 1919.

Application filed March 2. 1916. Serial No. 81.606.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, SAMUEL HELLER, a citizen of the United States,residing at the borough of Manhattan, in the city, county, and State ofNew York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inBrilliants, of which the following a. specification, reference being hadtherein to the ac companying drawings, which form a part thereof.

My invention relates to brilliants having a special crown cutting andfinish for the purpose of securing certain novel efiects and isapplicable to precious, semi-precious, synthetic or imitation stones.

In the production of brilliants, and by this term transparent orsemi-transparent gems, either genuine, synthetic or imitation are meant,the diamond cutters and lapidaries efforts have been limited heretoforeto the cutting and polishing of the stone in a manner to secure thedesired brilliancy, or the desired chromatic values. There are many wellknown styles of cuts, each of which has its particular value, ordesirable characteristics, but all of these styles have for their objectthe production of the maximum scintillations or fiashings of light inparticular stones. All cuttings have certain well defined desi ns, orgeometrical forms, and the main ob ect of my invention is to produce abrilliant, the cutting of which may correspond with any of the wellknown styles of cutting, while the effect of this cutting will bemodified by a special finish in the gem in a manner to combinebrilliancy therein, with a certain novel effect which I have termed adull finish.

In this specification the term brilliant is used in the sense in whichit is employed in the art to which this invention relates, which is aprecious or semi-precious stone, or imitation thereof, which istransparent,

' semi-transparent, or translucent, and which is so cut, ground andpolished, or burnished, as to form a crown above and a pavilion be low agirdle, with facets so formed and arranged as to reflect and refractlight rays, to secure brilliancy and chromatic values in the stone, andto cause the stone to scintillate and flash.

This effect is secured, by providing a gem having a crown and a pavilionwherein the pavilion facets are so cut and finished as to secure thedesired brilliancy, and a portion of the crown facets are polished torender them transparent or semi-transparent, while other of the crownfacets are so finished as to make them opaque or semi-opaque, such lastnamed facets forming a design which will be embodied in the generaldesign of the cutting of the gem in a manner to secure a most pleasingand novel .efiect.

The invention consists primarily in a brilliant having a pavilion,provided with facets so finished as to givebrilliancy to the gem and acrown provided with a group of bright facets and a group of dull facetswhereby the said crown has therein two blended designs, oneof themformed of said bright facets, and the other of said dull facets; and insuch other novel features and characteristics as are hereinafter setforth and described and more particularly pointed out in the claimshereto appended.

Referring to the drawings Figure 1 is a plan view of a gem embodying myinvention shown on a very much enlarged scale; and

Fig. 2 is a side elevation thereof.

Like letters refer to like parts in both views.

I In the embodiment of my invention shown in the drawings, I haveillustrated it in corn nection with a gem having a circulargirdle and aparticular cutting both asto the crown and as to the pavilion. Thisshowing, however, is merely for the purpose of illustrating a particulargem embodying-the invention, the invention itself being applicable tovarious cuttings both as to the crown and as to the pavilion, and is inno way limited to a gem having any particular shape of girdle.

In the form of the invention shown, the crown of the gem is indicated ata and the pavilion at b, the girdle being at c. The pavilion b isprovided with a plurality of cut and polished facets d, theconfiguration of which will vary according to the depth or breadth ofthe stone, and with the configuration of the girdle. In fact, the size,number or arrangement of the pavilion cuttings is immaterial to thisinvention and it is also immaterial whether or not said pavilion isprovided with a backing to add luster or brilliancy to the stone, whichis a practice sometimes followed with imitation gems.

The crown a is provided with an ordinary table 6 about which, andextending toward the girdle c, is a group of bright (cut and polished)facets f cooperating with the pa vilion facets to lend brilliancy to thegem; by reason of the transparency or semi-transparency of these out andpolished facets. In the form of the invention shown the table e is cutand polished.

. The crown a in addition to the polished table 6 and cut and polishedfacets f,'has formed thereon a group of facets g, the surfaces of whichare so finished as to make said facets dull (opaque or semi-opaque).These facets are so grouped with relation to the tableand the otherfacets as to combine in the crown cutting, two designs one of which isbright and scintillating and the other of which is sufficiently dull tocreate such contrast in the exposed portion of the gem as to combine ina single design of crown cutting, two distinct but blended effects. Thedesired degree of opacity of the facets 9 may be secured by a roughgrinding operation, these facets not being polished except in the eventthat it be desired to modify the degree of their opacity to secure thedesired effect.

The design of the dull finished portion of the crown, may be varied toany desired extent according to the shape or depth of the stone or thestyle of the cutting used in connection with a gem made in accordancewith my invention. Any of the well known styles of the crown, orpavilion, cutting may be employed and the dull design upon the crown maybe varied according to the location and size of the facets selected forcreating this design.

It is not my intention to in any way limit my invention to the crown orpavilion cutting such as is shown in the accompanying drawings, or touse upon a gem having a round, curved or any particular geometrical formof girdle. In fact the design which may be used to produce a stone madein accordance with my invention, is quite immaterial to the invention,the essential characteristic of which is to group both transparcut orsemi-transparent and opaque or semiopaque facets in the crown cutting ofa gem in a manner to secure the two blended designs, one bright andscintillating and the other dull.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to haveprotected by Letters Patent is 1. As an article of manufacture, abrilliant having a pavilion provided with cut and polished facetsgrouped about the axis of the stone, so as to give brilliancy to thegem, and a crown provided with a group of bright facets, and a group ofdull facets, whereby said crown has therein two blended designs one ofthem formed of said bright facets, and the other of said dull facets.

2. As an article of manufacture, a brilliant having a pavilion providedwith cut and polished facets grouped about the axis of the stone, sofinished as to give brilliancy to the gem and a crown having both brightand dull facets so grouped with relation to each other as to produce twoblended designs, one formed of said bright facets and the other of saiddull facets.

3. As an article of manufacture, a brilliant having a pavilion havingcut and polished facets, and a crown having both out and polished andcut and rough finished facets so grouped with relation to each other asto produce two blended designs, one formed of said out and polishedfacets and the other of said out and rough finished facets.

In witness whereof I have hereunto affixed my signature in the presenceof two, subscribing witnesses, this 28th day of February, 1916. I

SAMUEL HELLER.

VVitnesses F. T. WENTwoR'rH, JUDITH PARDEE.

Gopies or thia patent may be obtained for five cents each, byaddressing; the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. U.

